My Ultimate Honing Guide
For Plane Blades and Chisels
complete in stainless steel
Now with extra wheel for small chisels and widened for Stanley No.7 and 8 blades
I bought seven different honing guides and all of them didn’t satisfy my expectations.
Some times they are too small to handle, sometimes they aren’t solidly built and a lot of them rust by using them on water stones with water.
So I started my own design and :
>>>>>>Here it is<<<<<<
The watered honing stone has to be fixed or wedged on a waterproof base. In front of the honing stone there must be a 30 – 40 cm plain surface where the wheel is running.The blade or the chisel has to be fixed with the both star knobs to the base. The honing angle can be adjusted with a protractor by lowering or increasing the wheel.The honing stone should be frequently trued for example with a diamante plate. My best reference is to use a diamante plate with a 120 grit to prehone the blade and also for dressing the stones.
The adjusting range for a bevel is between 0 and 35°. Very helpful is a digital protractor as shown. With this protractor you can zeroize the surface of the honing stone and adjust the blade easily to the requested angle.
To start honing, grab the both star knobs tight and move the blade under maximum pressure over the length of the stone. To get a crowned blade, add the pressure frequently changing from one star knob to the other.
When the blade is honed to the requested angle and there is a burr all over the mirror side you should change from the diamante plate to a 1000 grit water stone.
To get the blade to an optimal sharpness, use a 6000 or 8000 grit stone and increase the honing angle at app. 1°. With this procedure you will get a circa 1 mm micro bevel. Finally the mirror side and the bevel are honed on a leather strap several times changing against the cutting direction until the burr has gone completely.
If you have stones with different high as usually, and you have the magnetic „mini digital protractor“ you can very easy adjust the honing guide from one stone to the other. There is a knob where you can zeroise the angle when you have presharpened the blade with a coarse stone. Now you can change to the finer stone and level the honing guide with the wheel to the same angle.The honing guide can also be used for skewed blades, for very slim chisels and to create a minor back bevel on the plane blades.To sharpen skewed blades, clamp the blade as a straight blade and with the single wheel, the honing guide adjust alone to the angle the blade is pre sharpened.
So you have again a three point rest and with this optional equipment also slim chisels don’t wobble anymore.You can prepare a blade with a small back bevel when you stack planed stones with water together. Affected by the adhesion the stones will stick together and you can hone a back bevel near 0° on this package of stones.
You can also use this guide for sharpening of the short Japanese chisels, but the length of the blade is too short to put the magnetic protractor direct on the blade. The sharpening angle, I choosed, for these two chisels is 25°
Another helpful practice is to plan the back iron. I had troubles to hone or file a flat surface on the bottom of the back iron which prevents clamping shaving between the iron and the back iron. So I stack water stones together till I reached the level to hone a slight angle on the tip of the back iron the adhesion keeps the stones together, it works perfect.